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Old 3rd Jan 2007, 10:52 AM   #11 (permalink)
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Wow, you were from Systemcooling? Damn, should have known! I guess I shouldn't challenge your knowledge... What happened to them?

Yes, Swiftech kit is definitely better than the best air cooler, of course. I agree, some kits are very good, especially those from the Europes or US, but not the Taiwans or Chinas...
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Old 8th Jan 2007, 07:32 PM   #12 (permalink)
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nice article here...
waiting for next episode story
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Old 9th Jan 2007, 04:27 AM   #13 (permalink)
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nice article here...
waiting for next episode story
Coming soon!
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Old 9th Jan 2007, 02:41 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Well, the reason is if the water cooling kit cannot perform better than an air cooler, it would be cheaper and better to just use an air cooler instead.
I couldn't agree more. Some of the cheaper water cooling solutions available are all just gimmicks. To actually get cooling better than air coolers, only much higher ranges of water cooling kits can do the job.
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Old 10th Jan 2007, 12:03 AM   #15 (permalink)
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interesting...
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Old 10th Jan 2007, 01:06 AM   #16 (permalink)
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We updated the article

Ever wondered about water cooling your PC? Well, wonder no more. AlmostThere will show you everything you need to know about water cooling.


Link : Understanding & Mastering Water Cooling
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Old 12th Jan 2007, 06:40 PM   #17 (permalink)
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There are a few things I don't really understand...

Page 5, tubings:
Quote:
... try to make it as short as possible. ... This helps increase the water flow rate and reduce the strain on the pump.
True, but don't over-do it!
- If inpingement type blocks are in use the flow resistance caused by the tubes is negligible.
- Bends cause turbulence (restriction) no matter if the tube is kinked or not. The sharper the bend the more turbulence.
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... keeping your tubings short, especially from the pump to the water block. I recorded a temperature reduction of 5°C just by doing so.
Seems highly improbable to me, unless shortening the tubes caused secondary effects like improved air flow at the radiator or so! (Or your measurements weren't properly made.)

Page 5, reservoir:
Quote:
... wrap a thin piece of foam or sponge around the inlet barb, ... This reduces the speed at which water is being poured into the reservoir and reduces splashing of the water.
What's the point of using thick and short tubing if you're going to put this type of restriction in the loop?
Making sure that the inlet is well below the water surface should be enough, as long as it isn't too close to the outlet (a known problem with the reservoir from Asetek).

/Olle
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Old 12th Jan 2007, 10:16 PM   #18 (permalink)
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The foam or sponge is supposed to break the speed of the water flowing into the reservoir. I don't think it will have any effect on the loop itself, as the water would have already left the tubing.
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Old 12th Jan 2007, 11:34 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
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The foam or sponge ... I don't think it will have any effect on the loop itself, as the water would have already left the tubing.
You can't reduce the water speed without either "plugging" the tube or have the flow spread over a larger area.
Quote:
wrap a thin piece of foam or sponge around the inlet barb
I read this as the sponge is to be mounted like a filter or thin plug that covers the opening. Then it will reduce the flow.

/Olle
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Old 13th Jan 2007, 01:53 AM   #20 (permalink)
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The point is he's reducing the speed of the water falling out of the barb.

It's like breaking or smoothing out the fall of water from a pipe by wrapping sponge or foam around the end of the pipe. The speed at which the water exits the pipe remains the same.

Only that the wrappings function as a sort of soft extension to the pipe, breaking up the pressured flow (out of the pipe) and reducing the height of water falling into the reservoir.
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