Snooty shoot

Discussion in 'Digital Photography' started by atwl77, Jul 16, 2013.

  1. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    I got this Honl Photo 8" snoot last week:
    [​IMG]

    Took some test shots with it:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    They're not really the results that I have envisioned, because it's hard to control spill light in a small room and I don't have a large enough surface to get a clean background. The snoot, despite being 8" long, also still has a relatively wide coverage for what I was aiming for; I guess I would have been better served by a proper snoot that can support attaching grids at the end.

    Still, coverage looks good and can also be used for portrait work. Not gonna post any of that here though, for fear of death from significant other. :mrgreen:
     
  2. Adrian Wong

    Adrian Wong Da Boss Staff Member

    Is it really useful for general portrait shots? Or only those where you want the radial light effect?
     
  3. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    It's useful when you need directed light placement, such as edge or hair lighting.
     
  4. jackcoke

    jackcoke Newbie

    can i ask what cameras are those? they are looking really interesting!
     
  5. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    The first one is the Fuji X100S, the second one is Fuji X-Pro1 with XF 35mm/1.4 lens.
     
  6. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    Another try, using a different setup:

    [​IMG]

    Here the snoot is providing the main backlight from behind and above the camera. A very slight amount of fill is added to the front using a translucent shoot-through umbrella, plus a silver reflector underneath the camera to outline the bottom.

    And this one has the reflection photoshopped in:

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Chai

    Chai Administrator Staff Member

    Hmm...looks a bit too dark to me...
     
  8. Adrian Wong

    Adrian Wong Da Boss Staff Member

    Yeah, it's a little too dark for me too.
     
  9. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    Yeah, I was aiming for something like this:
    [​IMG]

    Probably needed to tilt a bit down more, since the X-Pro1 isn't as curvy as the 1D.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 23, 2013
  10. Adrian Wong

    Adrian Wong Da Boss Staff Member

    Oooh!!! :thumb:
     
  11. jackcoke

    jackcoke Newbie

    thank you! i think i fell in love. :shifty:

    Didnt know there are so nice cameras out theese days. I was afraid touch screen is gonna be everywhere soon :nuts:
     
  12. Ishtim

    Ishtim Super Moderator

    Can you elaborate in why one would need a "snoot"? :think:
     
  13. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    Well, basic answer is to control light spill.

    In a studio environment, you have various lighting tools for different uses. Umbrellas provide the widest amount of light coverage, followed by softboxes.

    But sometimes you don't want your light to go all over the place, especially if you are shooting low key and don't want additional light to spill and bounce off nearby walls and ceilings, or if you are shooting product shots and want very specific lighting on specific parts.

    There are many means to control spill. You can attach modifiers on the light source itself, e.g. for softboxes you can install barn doors or grids on them; for flash heads, you can install portable barn doors, small grids or snoots.

    You can also prop up what is generically known as "gobos", black cards etc in between the light source and the subject to block light from reaching the subject (e.g. to prevent unwanted highlights on reflective material).

    So, a snoot is just basically one of many accessories to control light spill. The tool you need depends on how much spill you want to control, sometimes you need a snoot, sometimes you need a grid, etc.

    But in general, in terms of least spill coverage to tightest spill coverage:
    - barn doors
    - snoots and grids (depending on length of snoot, or angle of grid)
    - snoot with grid
     
  14. Ishtim

    Ishtim Super Moderator

  15. atwl77

    atwl77 Just Started

    Yeah, I've heard of better beamers. They're designed more to focus/concentrate light at long distances, rather than control light spillage. Different tool for different purpose.
     

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