Well, I've been looking around some more and finally found an affordable (cheap) waterblock which performs nicely. http://www.madshrimps.be/?action=getarticle&articID=491 http://www.overclockers.com/articles1316/ http://www.viscool.com/ I didn't find a review about their GPU waterblock but I think it would perform good as well. For the radiator I want to buy a heatercore from the junkyard with flat tubing and place for at least 4 120mm fans. The only thing now is the pump, I have to get a pump with a high flowrate, for not too much cash...... I'm thinking maybe a aquarium pump, but those are most commonly 220V and I don't think thats a good idea with the heat they give off..... The tubing and the water reservoir won't be that expensive, some arts and crafts skills and voila..... All input is appreciated, Nick
Well, the thing is, I don't have any airflow in my case, I mean my case is almost always open. And also I don't have any extra fans in my case, only the CPU fan, GPU fan and powersupply fan. Also I have floor heating in my house, so when it's cold outside the floor gets quite warm, and my case is on the floor . So that is also one of the reasons I like to go for watercooling, because then I can put the radiator somewhere other then the floor. Maybe on top of my case. Greetz, Nick
I just looked into this thread and you guys have quite a lengthy discussion here. Anyhow, I was looking for some confirmation about alcohol purely being used instead of water in the whole loop? I heard that it actually improves temperatures by 2-3 degrees but the downside is that it evaporates very quickly so you need to top it off rather frequently. Anyone knows if this is true? Another question, I have my loop configured as pump to radiator block to reservoir and back to pump. I just saw Chai's configuration and it made me question if mine could be improved? I was also thinking of adding another radiator before the reservoir. Any ideas would be helpful and appreciated.
Do you even read my comments???? Because I think your everytime you say something your only trying to put me down!!! As you could have read i'm NOT putting my radiator in my case!!! But somewhere else with 4 high speed fans i'm thinking the pump will do the rest! So there will be airflow but not in the case. In the case there will be waterflow and a lot of it I hope. If you think this is a problem SAY WHY!!!!! If you can't say something constructive, why even bother saying something. I'm really getting a negative vibe from you while i'm only trying to get as much useful info before i commit to watercooling. Grtz, Nick
You always need airflow in your case because there are vital components like your hard drive(s), RAM, power circuitry, etc which require airflow, and these components (for the most part) cannot be included in a watercooling loop.
Yea, settle down.. Good airflow is a must for any PC. Even more so when you overclock. I watercool but I have tons of air going through my case. And believe me, heat builds up real fast in there. :\ So I'd say fixing some proper air flow would be a prelude before trying any type of cooling.
Umph and other technical terms Blow Hole... that's not a personal comment, but rather my favorite "get the hot air out" method. I replaced the blow hole fan in my Lian Li case with a temp controlled fan with a bit more umph (technical term for CFM)
I'm sorry if I gave your that sort of impression. Although that comment was short, but straightforward enough to tell you that airflow is needed INSIDE the casing. Who cares about airflow outside the casing anyway. The most vital component is actually the chipset and voltage regulators. Without any airflow on them, it will most likely crash, from my experience anyway.
Thx people, I will be looking into the airflow situation in my case, before I go watercooling. Grtz, Nick
That's his opinion. Everyone is entitled to their own opinion so I don't really care much actually. IF there is sufficient feedback on what need to be corrected, I'd be glad to edit the article for redoing later. However the part about the tubing ONLY applies for very weak pumps. Anything commercially available of well known repute of at least Eheim's would not apply the same
Then there's even more reason for you to change that statement about the tubing, especially when such articles apply to most PC watercooling pumps. Nirox is not a common pump internationally. And I also agree with them regarding the radiator. Heatercore might be good back in those days, but PC optimised radiators are doing better than heatercore these days, like the ThermalChill PA series, Swiftech MCR, or even the BlackIce GT Xflow series, which are all optimised for low airflow. http://forums.procooling.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=13873
Concerning the tubing I've already PM'ed adrian to request an edit with a major rewrite of that statement. And as for the radiator part, saying that is easy if you live in the states, but honestly, how many of you can really afford even BI-GT? Tell me honestly on that. This was written with the purest intent to cover all masses of interest including DIY'ers who are not that well off. Have you checked lately how much even a PA120.1 costs including shipping? Not very cheap if you asked my personal opinion. So before agreeing with what foreigners say, do consider what we locally can afford. It's like saying yeah, an AMG CLS is much better then a converted Satria VR4 turbo, but how many can really afford the moolah for that AMG?
I did bought my MCR320 for about RM200 excluding shipping to Malaysia. I find it quite affordable. http://www.jab-tech.com/120mm-Triple-c-258.html As you can see from the chart here, MCR220 is only just slightly poorer performer than PA120.2. At worst case scenario (0.5gpm), PA120.2 is only 1C/100W better than MCR220. Thermalchill is from UK, which explains the much higher cost. The biggest problem with Malaysia is the lack of demand for such items, which is why the only way to get these parts are from the US, which includes waterblock, radiator and even pumps. I don't think it's possible to find heatercore in Malaysia as well, since most Malaysian cars are not equiped with heater. Before it gets heated again, there's no need to get uptight about discussions like this. At the end of the day, all of us are benefiting. Look at the bright side, Procooling is normally extremely critical about such articles, but they didn't have much bad comments, which is a very good thing. I don't think I could have done a better job than you do.
In comparison to the MCR220, yes the PA120.2 is a bit of overkill but when they say silent, they're talking fans like Yate Loons which are real whisperers. And the MCR220 is a very good design in the first place since it was designed by ol' Bill Adams himself. Kinda nice to see those numbers since I own one myself actually (Replacement after someone was kind enough to cause the bars on my BIP to have holes in it)Unfortunately he left due to differences with management. Unfortunately Chai, the MCR320 is quite an overkill unless you're going to subject massive heat dumps thanks to multi stage loops which have at least 3 heat sources to worrk about. And as for heatercore, come on man, be creative abit. There's tons of junkyards with loads of oil coolers, small radiators and those Mira Turbo intercoolers which are usable for modding if you really wanna be ghetto. I know a few who've gone down that route sucessfully. Just needs some lateral thinking and the can do spirit. That's how the initial WC'ers in Malaysia got on by. 5 years ago, the idea of bulk ordering from overseas was very alien. We had to rely on whatever we could find including generous people who would sell us home-made converted heatercores with proper barbs, oil tubes, DIY reservoirs, brought back from overseas trips waterblock purchases, and frakenstein trial and error investigation of which pump worked. Heck, you can even ask Boss Adrian how was it like 5 years ago with people like Bulkhy and Aleck experimenting like mad, making own radiators and milling out own blocks. Those are the real experts. I'm nothing compared to them. Now things have gotten better but the sad part is the reduced thirst in knowledge for watercooling. I have no beef with anyone but I just want you all to see that the point of this article be written is that at least people would have a point of reference based on basic priciples and would understand why at times, the aftermarket option can be better then those taiwanese packages (Although I reserve my judgement for gigabyte's WC set which does seem sound in principle).
Actually, I started watercooling more than 5 years ago. Yes, I have to design my own waterblock too. Of course, just like you, I'm just an adventureous noob without any technical knowledge or resources. http://www.adriansrojakpot.com/Othe...Water_Cooling/Affordable_Water_Cooling_01.htm I bought oil coolers before which doesn't seem to work well. I quickly discarded the idea and switch to proven radiators from the US.
We have just updated the guide! Ever wondered about water cooling your PC? Well, wonder no more. AlmostThere will show you everything you need to know about water cooling. Here's the update:- Link : Understanding & Mastering Water Cooling Rev. 1.1
For some odd reason, at least half of this TechARP guide looks to be close to verbatim from a "Guide to Watercooling and Leak Testing" sticky on XtremeSystems. Does Maxxxracer have an alias he goes by elsewhere, or are there uncredited sources?
